Monday, April 17, 2017

Coconut Grove & Bahamians

April 17, 2017

We are currently anchored near Everglades City on the lower southwest Florida coast and have some intermittent and weak internet, but I thought I would try to catch up on blogging.

We recently spent over two months in Miami, specifically moored in Coconut Grove.  We love Miami, but we feel a special relationship with Coconut Grove because of its Bahamian connection.

Coconut Grove was the earliest black settlement in south Florida and the settlers were largely African Bahamians that came to the States for work.   The West Grove is still predominately black with many Bahamian influences.  Many people avoid the West Grove, but we go there regularly.


Early Bahamian settlers at the Barnacle (circa 1895)

Our church in Coconut Grove is Greater St Paul's African Methodist Episcopal Church.  We first got connected at an evening event at the Barnacle which featured dance groups from various black churches.  The dances were very moving and we met someone that invited us to St. Paul's. The church just celebrated its 121st anniversary - not many American churches can say that! 




However, they are not the oldest church in the Grove, the Macedonia Missionary Baptist Church down the street is a little older and the oldest African American church in Miami-Dade.




 A funny, but telling story:  We were dressed in our 'Sunday best' (not anywhere up to black church standards, but the best we have on the boat) riding the bus to church.  We rang for a stop at Grand and McDonald, about a block from the church.  As we approached the bus stop, the driver (a black woman) said with a questioning voice, "Is this your stop?".  Not many white people get off there.


The Bahamians brought to south Florida an understanding of tropical life that influenced the style of housing.  The Mariah Brown house was built in 1895 and still stands.  I can't begin to count how many hurricanes it has survived!





Note that the landowner mentioned is named Stirrup.
On a cruise, you may have visited Stirrup Cay in the Bahamas and not realized it.
The cruise ship companies call it the much more romantic 'Coco Cay'

 Bahamian style cemetery - keeps bodies from washing away in storms.



Bahamian names are common:

The Post Office - Rolle is a very common Exuma name


Armbrister is a name from Cat Island


I was yelled at when I tried to take a picture of the sign at the domino park, but then this man came out, said "don't mind her", and insisted I take his picture.



Colorful mural that we have sat in front of waiting for church

A few thoughts on 'black spaces':

We have spent 5 seasons in the Bahamas largely in 'black spaces' and are quite comfortable in them.  Just a clarifying note. In our opinion, most people cruising in the Bahamas do not spend a lot of time in black spaces; rather they stick to places that are predominately populated with white people.   There, like here, you need to get into black neighborhoods, black churches, businesses where the customers are predominately black, etc to be in a black space.  Quick test - look around - are virtually all of the faces black - then you are probably in a black space.

In my opinion, the best thing we can do for 'race relations' is to get to know people that are different from us.  And here is the tricky part, in order to really know someone, you have to know them in their 'space'. Talking to the black guy at work or the black couple at church doesn't really get you there.  Believe me, they have two personas - one for white spaces, one for their space.

So be brave, and push your boundaries.  While walking the streets of the West Grove, it is amazing how many people say 'Good Morning' or the woman at church that told us, "Please come back as much as you can, you bring us great joy!".   But be respectful - if someone doesn't want you to take a picture - don't take it, it is their home, not yours.

However, don't be foolish  -  there are many places,(black and white) I would not go in Miami so be careful.

What I am sure you will find, is that they are just people, trying to live their lives, raise their families, and support their communities - just like you.


Tom
Anchored Russell Pass, near Everglades City, FL


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