Black Point - Birthdays and Gullah

March 22, 2015

We have spent over two weeks anchored in Black Point, one of our favorite places in the Bahamas.

Yes it offers some increasingly popular amenities to cruisers, but it is special because underneath it is a true working Bahamian settlement.  It takes time and effort to get beneath the surface, but that is rewarded by a truly unique experience.

Our closest friends here is the extended family of Peermon ('Paymon') Rolle.  Peerman is the delightful matriarch of the family and we spend many hours here just sitting on her porch talking with her and her husband Basil.  It is a simple pleasure that you just don't find much anymore - just sitting in the shade talking.

Joyce, Peermon, and a rare occurrence of a very busy Lorraine relaxing on 'The Porch'

Peermon is a deaconess in Gethsemane Baptist Church of which we are 'members'.  One Sunday featured a visiting evangelist from Nassau, who has come to Black Point annually for a few years.  She had a group of singers and musicians that led a very lively service and we thought her message was very good.

The evangelist had two weeknight services that we missed due to miscommunication.  We didn't know about the services, but when we asked Peermon why she didn't tell us, she replied "I did tell you, you must not of understood".    We understand each over quite well, but I would rate our mutual comprehension at 70-80%.  I have talked about differences in sounding vowels in Bahamian before - for example I am 'Tome' in Bahamian.  But the differences go deeper than that and go back to the African slave experience.

When the slaves arrived, they learned two languages: 'English' to speak to the white people, and 'Gullah' to speak among themselves.   A book that gives great insight into the African slave experience is "The Book of Negroes".  It follows a young woman named Aminata from her capture into slavery through her flight to freedom and later life.  The discussion of when she is being schooled in language after her arrival at a South Carolina plantation helps you understand the language better:

"...I came to see that she was teaching me two languages. ...There was the language that (she) spoke when alone with the Negroes on the plantation, and she called that Gullah. And there was the way she spoke to [the white people] and that she called English."

I am quite sure that out-island Bahamanian is largely derived from Gullah and many years of island isolation have made it the primary language.  The more isolated the island - the stronger the Gullah-based-language.  Black Point has some of the strongest Gullah that we find in our travels.

Now on to Birthdays.  Joyce celebrated her birthday recently and I wanted to organize a little birthday party.  Lorraine (Peermon's daughter and owner of Lorraine's Cafe) agreed to make a cake and I spent several mornings going around the settlement inviting many friends and acquaintances.  I was pleased with the turn-out and we had a great time together.  Elvie, the post-mistress, had recently also had a birthday and it turned into a joint celebration.  Quite unexpectedly, Joyce received several nice presents of straw-work and locally made jewelry and knicknacks at the party.  And then at our last service at Gethsemane Baptist, she received a lovely fruit basket; it was flown in from Nassau - it the best fruit we have ever had in the Bahamas! It is very hard to out-give Bahamians!

A rare picture of us at the birthday party.  I think the candles should read '39'.
Lorraine's son Joshua awaiting a piece of cake on the left

Another birthday picture.
Mrs Adderley of Adderley's Friendly Market on the right
She gave Joyce a pretty straw-work bag. 

Towards the end of the party while a few women remained, the language turned heavily to Gullah.  I could follow the essence of the conversation, but it was not easy.  I am quite sure that the intent was not to hide their conversation from us, but would like to think that we were just thought of as other 'neighbors'.

Our last Sunday service at Gethsemane was a highlight of our time at the church.  It was led by Sister Luann Ferguson and the service was very moving.  Peermon recounted seeing Luann in Sunday School and recognizing at a young age that she was a leader.  She is very gifted and we hope she continues to be a worship leader in the church.  A simple, but moving, song was repeatedly sung with great power - we can't get it out of our heads:

There is nothing that I need that he won't provide

There is nothing that I need that he won't supply

If I believe, If I believe

So, I say to the mountain move

So, I say to the mountain get out of my way

Cause I believe, yes I believe

The people of Black Point are extremely friendly and gracious, but most interactions with 'tourists' are fairly superficial.  But with time and effort, you can build deeper relationships - it is well worth the effort!

In a few days we plan to transit to Cat Island, another of our favorite places.

Tom
Anchored Black Point
Great Guana, Exuma