May 11, 2014
We have spent over two weeks in the Black Point Settlement on Great Guana Cay, Exuma. Black Point is one of our favorite places in the Bahamas.
Black Point offers a number of services aimed at cruisers including a great laundry, several restaurants, and a small grocery store and is getting to be an increasingly popular stop; on Super Bowl day we were told there were over 120 boats in the harbour.
But its charm continues to stem from the fact that it is a true (and active) family island settlement. There are no significant populations of ‘winter residents’ or resort-style accommodations here; the people of Black Point live and work in the area. Early every morning, numerous open boats leave the island full of people commuting to jobs at the various marinas and resorts in the area and they return late each day. Sometimes it is probably a pleasant trip, other times it is a nasty wet ride.
Black Point also has the greatest number of children that we have seen in any settlement. It is a great place to grow up! The children have a great amount of freedom to roam the settlement and play with their friends. It is not unusual to have to dodge a ‘gang’ of kids riding their bikes down the road, see a vigorous game of hide and seek near the dock, or just talk to some cute kids hanging out on the beach/dock.
Bahamians have a great deal of connection to their ‘home’ island, even if they live elsewhere. There are many more people who identify as Black Pointers in places like Nassau, where job opportunities are greater, than in the actual settlement and many return for the annual ‘homecoming’ in August. Extended families are strong and there is a great deal of interactions between the settlement and other places, primarily Nassau. Food, clothing, and other necessities are scarce on the island, and many residents depend on relatives in Nassau to shop for these things which are then shipped to the island via the ‘mail-boat’. Arrival of the mail-boat is a big event and everyone gathers at the dock. I (Tom) love mail-boats and always try to be there when it arrives. Unloading is a community affair and I try to help where I can.
The settlement has an excellent all-age (primary) school; the physical facility is rather simple by American standards, but the teachers are dedicated and the students receive a good education in a wholesome environment. In fact, many Nassau-based families send their younger children to Black Point to go to school while living with extended family. The situation is often reversed when Black Point students travel to Nassau to attend high school or college while living with relatives there.
Bahamians have a great deal of connection to their ‘home’ island, even if they live elsewhere. There are many more people who identify as Black Pointers in places like Nassau, where job opportunities are greater, than in the actual settlement and many return for the annual ‘homecoming’ in August. Extended families are strong and there is a great deal of interactions between the settlement and other places, primarily Nassau. Food, clothing, and other necessities are scarce on the island, and many residents depend on relatives in Nassau to shop for these things which are then shipped to the island via the ‘mail-boat’. Arrival of the mail-boat is a big event and everyone gathers at the dock. I (Tom) love mail-boats and always try to be there when it arrives. Unloading is a community affair and I try to help where I can.
The settlement has an excellent all-age (primary) school; the physical facility is rather simple by American standards, but the teachers are dedicated and the students receive a good education in a wholesome environment. In fact, many Nassau-based families send their younger children to Black Point to go to school while living with extended family. The situation is often reversed when Black Point students travel to Nassau to attend high school or college while living with relatives there.
We have become quite close with the Peermon (‘Paymon’) Rolle family. She and her husband Basil have 10 children, one of whom runs the popular Lorraine’s Café in Black Point. Peermon is a delightful and extraordinary woman. She bakes what we consider the best coconut bread in the Bahamas, but more importantly has raised a wonderful family and is a deaconess, and main driving force, in Gethsemane Baptist Church here. We spend quite a bit of time with Peermon and Basil when we are here, and last year we ‘adopted’ her as our daughter – so now we are 'related' to the whole family.
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| Our church home here in Black Point |
This year we participated in the award service for the 2nd annual Mother’s Day Walk. It was a great time of fun for all including some lively games of musical chairs! Joyce and Tom participated in the ‘tourist’ division with Joyce winning. Joyce was eliminated fairly early in the over-60 women’s division that was won by Peermon. Tom was eliminated early when he competed with the men.
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| Joyce competing in the over-60 women's division |
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| Joyce being eliminated from the over-60 division - tough competition! The two young girls in the foreground came up to me and wanted to dance while I was helping setup - I guess there were not many other men around to compete for their attention :-). VERY CUTE! |
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| Peermon showing some style in the finals of the over-60 Women's Division |
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| Peermon celebrating a narrow victory! |
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| A competitive finish in the Youth Division |
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| Tom in the Men's Division - eliminated in the second round - tough competition! |
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| The winners of the various divisions in the actual walk |
A few other pictures from our visit to Black Point follow:
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| Always surprising how rugged the eastern shore is |
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| Interior of Great Guana - very hilly! |
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| Lorraine's Cottage which is for rent - very nice. |
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| 'Little Creek' near Dotham Cut Evan Cottman, the 'Out-Island Doctor' reportedly rode out a gale here. When I was discussing the upcoming weather with Edwin, a BP friend, he suggested I could ride the weather out here - I asked him if he was going to pull me out when I ran aground :-) |
After a ‘tropical wave’ passes early next week we will leave and spend a few days in the Exuma Land & Sea Park, before starting the trek back to the states.
Tom
Black Point, Exuma
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