Groceries & Greetings

April 29, 2013

A couple of observations after a few days in Miami following 4 1/2 months in the Bahamas:

• Walking into the Coconut Grove Fresh Market supermarket, I was almost overwhelmed by the variety and quantity of groceries available as compared to your typical Bahamian out-island store
• It has been hard not greeting everyone you pass as is typical in the Bahamas; Miami is more typically 'elevator' protocol, eyes forward, don't speak to strangers.

I have read about the 'adjustment' that cruisers often go through after returning to the States after a significant time in third-world environments;  this is the first time that I have a small taste of that feeling.

Outside of the resorts, marinas, large cities like Nassau, and cruiser congregation areas like Georgetown, Staniel Cay, and Marsh Harbour, the Bahamas are essentially a third-world country.  Stores are minimally stocked and prices expensive. We learned that many residents of the out-islands depend on relatives in places like Nassau to select and ship them groceries. 

After months of minimally stocked stores, walking through the produce, meat, and dairy sections of the Fresh Market was like being a 'kid in a candy store' and similar to many kids, frozen by making choices. 



Strawberries stacked 2' high!

Beautiful citrus

Apples galore!
 

Boneless chicken breasts
If you can get it, chicken in the Bahamas is drumsticks, thighs, and wings

Make no mistake, the US is a rich country; most of the rest of the world does not live like this.  Yes there are pockets of the US that also do not have the food supply of a Fresh Market,  but they are the exception, not the rule.

The other observation, is that the Bahamians, although not affluent by American standards, are a warm, friendly, and giving people.   Greetings between total strangers are the rule.  In the out-islands, it is typical to wave at every passing car or pedestrian.  'Greet your neighbor' times in Bahamian churches are not restricted to a few 'pew neighbors'; you typically greet virtually every other person in the congregation.  Although these interactions may seem superficial, it is not hard to take these relationships to another level. As you get to know Bahamians on a deeper level you find that they have strong family and community bonds and live a highly interdependent life.  Although we enjoy Miami, interactions here follow a more typical 'big city make no eye contact'  protocol.  Also living for over 30 years in relatively affluent suburbs, we know how hard it can be to really get to know your neighbors there.

It seems to me that while we in the States are rich in things, we are relatively poor in community; we highly value independence and avoid interdependence. 

While we think we live the 'good life' and can't imagine how people live in places that are less affluent, I am not sure we have it quite right. 

Tom
Moored at Coconut Grove Sailing Club
Miami, Fl 

Crossing the Stream and Back in the US

April 25, 2013

Today we had an uneventful crossing of the Gulf Steam from Bimini to Miami. 

We motored the whole way with light and variable winds.

The biggest excitement of the day was a Coast Guard VHF call regarding an Emergency Beacon (EPIRB) activation from a boat that had been docked at the next marina in Bimini.  We were able to help (in a small way) by calling the Coast Guard on our satelitte phone and giving them information on where they had been docked and providing the phone number of the marina so they could get information on their departure and plans.  From what we could hear from the CG rescue helicopter, it was an accidental activation.

We were sad to leave the Bahamas after 4 1/2 months there.  We thoroughly enjoyed our time there and especially the Bahamians we met.

We are currently moored at Coconut Grove Sailing Club and are planning a week or so stay here to get reaclimated to life in the US.  In particular, I need to really concentrate on keeping RIGHT when driving!

Tom
Moored at Coconut Grove Sailing Club
Miami, FL
Map Cruise 2012-13

Bimini - Fast Ferry & Weech's Dock

April 23, 2013

We have been docked at Weech's Bimini Dock in North Bimini for over a week.  We had a window to cross to Miami the two days after we arrived here after 4 long days of travel from Eleuthera, but wanted to take a break and enjoy Bimini.  A new cold front has kept us here a little longer than planned; current plan is to cross on Wednesday or Thursday.

One big change here since our stay in December has been the arrival of the new fast ferry from Miami and the related security.  It is currently coming over two times a week, which will probably expand as they get into the summer, which is the 'busy season' here in Bimini.

The minute we saw the security on a large portion of the government dock, we knew that this was the work of US Homeland Security, and we were right.  Most, if not all, of the security is required by Homeland Security, who also 'supervise' the operation.  Upon arrival on Friday, there were probably 30 Bahamian officials (Defence Force, Police, Customs, Immigration) on hand to greet the 100 or so inbound passengers.  It was quite a show.




Ferry arriving
 

ISPS - International Sea Port Security

Greeting the passengers
Uniforms from left - Immigration, Defence Force, Police


 

Customs processing passengers
I had somehow 'breached' security in taking this picture and was asked to leave the area.

Razor wire around a corner of the dock - a nice touch!

"Sign said keep out - didn't say nothin on the other side"
Woody Guthrie
We think the razor wire on this corner was torn down by local fishermen.

In closing a word about Weech's dock.  It is not the fanciest marina, but it is historic, relatively inexpensive, and the people are nice.  A side benefit is that, especially since a large portion of the government dock has been 'lost' to fast ferry security, Weech's is somewhat of the community dock and it is a great place to meet locals. 

Just one Bahamian people story - you didn't think I would write a blog entry without one did you?  Yesterday we were sitting in the shade near the office enjoying a rare afternoon Kalik beer. A small fishing boat docked and a dred-locked Bahamian man walked past and we exchanged greetings. A few minutes later he came back through with a bag of beverages from the nearby liquor store.  As he passed he said with a smile " I have my provisions now".  He then turned and said " Your on vacation, you need another beer".  He left his bag on the dock and returned a few minutes later with two bottles of Kalik.  I tried to pay him, but he refused saying " Your in the islands now mon". 

Later that evening I was out on the dock when he returned in his boat.  I went over to say hi, see how his fishing went, and again thank him for the beers.  I learned his name was 'Brown'.  He asked me if I liked conch to which I responded sure.  He said I will give you some. I said I would love it, but I don't know how to clean it.  He said, no problem I will do it and teach you how.  He cleaned four conch and gave them to me.  He again refused any money.

A highlight of the encounter was eating a conch 'algae line'.  Brown had eaten the first three joking that they were good for you - like Viagra.  He offered me the last one which I accepted and ate.  They are salty and my best description is that they have somewhat the consistency of a 'gummy worm'. 

Thank you Brown!

Tom
Docked at Weech's Bimini Dock
Alice Town, North Bimini    

Mackie Shoal to Bimini

April 16, 2013

After 4 hard days of travel, we have reached Bimini and are now docked at Weech's Bimini Dock in Alice Town, North Bimini. 

No rocking, heeling, sail slap, or engine noise now - nice change.  The trip from Rock Sound in Eleuthera was about 209 nautical miles over 4 days.  The wind was generally moderate and favorable but much of the trip featured swells that caused significant boat movement (rocking, pitching). 

As I was relating this post to Joyce and commenting that 209 miles would not be very impressive to many people, she came up with a great comparison.  A car at highway speeds goes about 10 times faster than our boat; this would make our boat trip equivalent to about a 2100 mile car trip!  That comparison better communicates the scope of the trip - a long way!  

On Sunday we had a long day traveling from West Bay, New Providence through the NW channel and onto the bank.  We anchored on Sunday night on the Great Bahama Bank near Mackie Shoal.  We had done this in December on our trip east and had a comfortable night at anchor.  This time, however, there was a 10-15 knot SE wind overnight that kicked up some small but sharp waves - we had a very uncomfortable night offering little good sleep.  We were off at 0600 (and glad to be underway) before sunrise to catch a favorable tide at Bimini.

Given the long trip and the poor sleep on Sunday night, we were both very tired on arrival and napped and slept much until this morning - feeling better now.

Our plan is to stay docked in Bimini for about a week until the next weather window to cross the Gulf Stream and return to the States.

Tom
Docked at Weech's Bimini Dock
Alice Town, N Bimini
Map Cruise 2012-13

New Providence to Mackie Shoal

April 14,2013

We are currently anchored on the Great Bahama Bank near Mackie Shoal.

Today we traveled 79 nautical miles, which we believe is a personal 'record' for a day sail.

We left West Bay on New Providence at first light around 0645 following a track we established on our way into the Bay on Saturday. Today may also be a record for miles with an adverse current on the bow. We left a few hours after low tide and the flood current was setting us south and west across the 'tongue of the ocean'. The wind was light from the SE, so we were motoring. I correctly predicted that the current would switch in our favor as we made our way north towards the NW Channel, but then the tide started to ebb and we again had current against us through the narrows of the channel and across the Bank.

Note to mariners - the NW channel light is still destroyed and its remains are JUST visible above the water at mid-tide.

As we made our way across the Bank the wind picked up and we had a nice motor-sail for a while.

To cap off the day, we hit a few squalls as we approached Mackie Shoals and as we anchored at 1945.

It has been a long day and we will be up for a 0500 departure tomorrow.

Good Night!


Tom
Anchored near Mackie Shoal
Great Bahama Bank
Via Satellite Phone
https://maps.google.bs/maps/ms?msid=200590554493708637967.0004cd087926eecbe5442&msa=0&ll=26.007424,-78.95874&spn=5.073881,10.645752

Highbourne Cay to West Bay, New Providence

April 13, 2013

Today we traveled 48 nautical miles across the Bahamas Bank from Highbourne Cay in the northern Exumas to West Bay, New Providence.

The wind was 15 knots gusting to 20 almost from dead astern.  We motor-sailed with a full genoa (130%) and averaged over 6 knots.  We could have probably sailed it, but it would added an hour or two.

Tomorrow we plan an early (0615) start to head up through the 'tongue of the ocean' and through the northwest channel and back on to the Bahamas Bank.  We hope to make it to Mackie Shoal, a distance of over 71 miles, before anchoring on the bank for most of the night - a very long day of travel.  We then plan a 0430 departure the next day to cover the 41 additional miles to Bimini, arriving at high/slack tide around noon.  The current through the channel at Bimini is very strong and it makes it oh so much easier to navigate the channel and dock at slack current.

After arriving at Bimini we plan to relax for a few days after 3 1/2 hard days of travel!

Tom
Anchored West Bay
New Providence
Map Cruise 2012-13

Eleuthera to Highbourne Cay

April 12, 2013

Today we traveled about 42 nautical miles across Exuma Sound from Rock Sound, Eleuthera to Highbourne Cay in the northern Exumas.  Here we are crossing our wake for the first time as we head back to the States.

We had a great sail across Exuma Sound.  Winds were 15-20 knots with higher gusts as predicted and gave us a broad reach.  We sailed with a single reef in the main and the headsail furled to a working jib size.  The combination was great and we averaged over 6 knots including a slow start as we bucked an adverse current through the Davis Channel near Eleuthera.  With the waves on our starboard quarter, however, the ride was a bit bumpy.

We hit Highbourne Cut near low tide so we had only a minor ebb current and except for a little chop, the cut was very manageable. 

We are currently anchored on the west side of the Cay.

Tommorrow we will continue heading west to West Bay on New Providence Island.


Tom
Anchored at Highbourne Cay, Exuma
Map Cruise 2012-13

Rock Sound, Eleuthera

April 10, 2013

 

We have been anchored in Rock Sound on Eleuthera for over a week and have enjoyed our stay.

 

In the 1950’s and 60’s  this area was THE place to be in the Bahamas with several exclusive resorts in the area;  Jackie Kennedy Onassis is reported to have vacationed near here on her luxury mega-yacht.   Most, if not all, of these clubs and resorts are now closed or reduced in size and scope and the area has fallen on hard times.  It is not perfectly clear to us why the change, but a women we talked to at the government dock blamed the government.   Certainly areas like Nassau and Freeport have gotten the edge in terms of development and even here on Eleuthera, the ‘exclusive’ part of the island is now in the northern section.  The people here are, however, very friendly and seem to appreciate visitors. 

 

First a little digression on Bahamian ‘language’.  The Bahamians basically speak English, but if you listen to them talking amongst themselves you might not think so. Certainly there is a little Creole mixed in but it is primarily English with differences in pronunciation and word usage.  Many can ‘switch’ into American English, but you can have some real communication problems with those that cannot.  I have gotten to about 50-70% comprehension on ‘real’ Bahamian language, but can’t really speak it very well at all. 

 

First what you DON’T hear in Bahamian speech.  We have talked to a lot of natives and have never really heard the stereotypical ‘da’ for ‘the’ – as in ‘da islands’ or  ‘da bar’.     What, however, is very prominent is dropping h’s after t’s:   ‘thing’ becomes ‘ting’; ‘three’ becomes ‘tree’, and actually ‘the’ becomes something like ‘teh’.  Secondly ‘O’ and ‘A’s are pronounced like they are in Spanish:  ‘O’  is ‘oh’; ‘A’ is ‘aah’.   For example, I get much better recognition when I introduce myself as‘T-oh-M’.  A great example of unique word usage here on Eleuthera is when I asked Michelle, the women who cut my hair, if she was a Rock Sound native, she said no, she was from some bay ‘Up South’.   If you practice, you can understand more and remember, if you can’t understand a Bahamian, he probably cannot understand you – he/she is not being ‘difficult’.

 

Our hangout here has been Sammy’s Restaurant and bar - another place where the locals flock for take-away, but that is also very accommodating to tourists.   The food is very good and we have gotten to know some of the staff.  I took it as high praise after eating the fried ‘jack’ fish special  when Jan, our server, seeing the fish backbone picked clean said “You eat fish like a Bahamian”.  I told Jan that after the dinner, which included a big helping of grits and peas, macaroni and cheese, and coleslaw, that the only thing missing was a cot for the after-dinner nap!

 

 

 

 

 

 

Rock Sound has an interesting ‘ocean hole’ with a nice park surrounding it.  The deep hole, which is similar to a ‘blue hole’ in some ways except that it's about ½ mile from any water.  It is sharply cut out of rock, and is filled with sea water – the water in the hole rises and falls with the tide so they are connected through some cave/tunnel system.   The water has a high mineral content and local legend is that it has ‘healing’ properties. 

 

 

 

 

Joyce relaxing in the 'Tiki' hut at the Ocean Hole

 

 

We also found our first nice coffee house of the year here – ‘Java Bytes Coffee Spot’ located just north of the Marketplace grocery store and Scotia bank.  Terri there has been a very gracious hostess on several visits. 

 

 

 

Rock Sound unexpectedly has a nice laundromat not listed in the cruising guides.  Willa Mae, one of the owners, is the daytime attendant and helps coordinate the ‘flow’ through the machines.  The owners are nice folks and we are going to try to get it listed in some of the cruising literature.

 

 

 

 

Lastly in the category of interesting signs – check out the sign on this white truck sitting in a yard.

 

"'Not 4 sale - Don't ask" - we didn't

 

 

We had originally planned to continue north from here and return to the Abacos where we were last year, but in looking at the calendar, weather, and the fact that we are about at the same latitude as Miami where we will return to the states, we have decided to start heading back. This will give us a little more time to linger in some places we enjoy like Bimini and Miami, and may allow a trip to the Dry Tortugas 90 miles west of Key West, before we head back to Bradenton.

 

 

Tom

Anchored in Rock Sound, Eleuthera

 

 

Cat Island to Eleuthera

April 3, 2013

 

On Monday April 1^st we sadly left Cat Island after two weeks there.  We had met so many nice people, some that we would dare call friends, that we were both somewhat emotional about leaving. We will definitely come back to Cat Island!

 

Our first transit day had us traveling north and west about 36 miles to Little San Salvador.  We motor sailed with a headsail and a light following wind; a 3-4’ swell developed on our stern providing a fairly bumpy ride.  These waters are quite desolate and we saw only one boat underway until we approached Little San Salvador.  This is another of the cruise ships ‘private’ islands and the ‘Carnival Fascination’ was anchored off of West Bay (renamed to the sexier ‘Half Moon Bay’).  It is quite a show watching the cruise ship guests enjoying all the toys.   

 

There was a significant swell working its way into the bay and you are restricted to the northern end by the cruise ship operations, so we tucked in as far as we could in the northeast corner.  ‘We-aren’t-afraid-of-shallow-water-boy’ overestimated the water this time (with the help of Navionics) and underestimated the effect of the swell and as low tide approached we started to bump the bottom.   By then the cruise ship had left and we able to move south a bit to some deeper water.

 

On Tuesday we traveled about 44 miles around East Point on Eleuthera and up to Rock Sound.  This again was a motor-sail with a mainsail.  The seas were calm and we had a very smooth ride.   These again are rather desolate waters. Around the south end of Eleuthera Joyce saw her first flying fish and for the first time on a sailboat we saw a small whale breach twice - very cool!  We anchored near the town dock at Rock Sound and are looking forward to exploring the settlement.

 

A significant front is expected at the end of the week but we think we will be adequately protected here, although we may need to move around as the wind shifts.

 

Tom

Anchored Rock Sound

Eleuthera, Bahamas

Map Cruise 2012-13