Saturday, December 29, 2012

Hawksbill Cay

December 29, 2012

We are currently at the small northern mooring field on Hawksbill Cay within the Exuma Park.

We are moored just off a beautiful beach on the west side of the cay– one of the nicest for swimming that we have seen. We also hiked over to an eastern beach yesterday, again very nice. As previously mentioned, the beaches in the Exumas have noticeably less trash than those in the Abacos, although the eastern beaches still receive their share of flotsam and jetsam. But within the Park, visitors can pick up beach trash and pile it in a designated spot; the park staff then periodically will remove it.

The trail we hiked was well marked and led from the small beach just around the point north of the long beach off the mooring field. It leads to some ruins from a Loyalist settlement abandoned in the mid-19th century and then on to an eastern-side beach. They are very overgrown and thus not that easy to view, but then again they have been abandoned for over 150 years and the tropics do not suffer empty space. Most of the Loyalist agricultural efforts failed due to the poor soil and lack of water.

One surprise in the Exumas has been the number and size of motor yachts that we have seen. Boats of 125' and up are quite common. The park even has moorings for vessels up to 150'. We are not sure if these big boats will decline in number after the holiday season or if they are a permanent feature of these islands.

On the subject of large boat moorings, we are currently on one. You are allowed to take one if no other 'small boat' moorings are available. We have learned that it should be a last resort. Our painter (the line to which you attach the boat to the mooring) is huge (probably 3" in diameter) and heavy. I (Tom) was very impressed that Joyce was able to pick it up after I secured our second line to it.

We plan to stay here through the weekend to weather a moderate cold front coming through, after which we will probably go to Warderick Wells, where the Park headquarters are located.

Tom
Moored at Hawksbill Cay
Exuma, Bahamas
Posted by satellite email
Map Cruise 2012-13

Wednesday, December 26, 2012

Shroud Cay

December 24, 2012

We are currently moored at Shroud Cay in the Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park. The Exuma Park is a national park and a protected area and is reputed to be one of the most beautiful and pristine areas in the Exumas. Certainly the beach that we visited yesterday was one of the nicest we have seen in the Bahamas. The sand is incredibly fine and brilliant white contrasting with the beautiful green and blue water. Noticeably absent was the trash that seemed to mar many of the beaches we visited in the Abacos last year.

Shroud Cay is actually a group of cays and rocks between which lies a mangrove salt pond and estuary. We dinghied through the northern creek to to Driftwood Beach on the Exuma Sound side of the island. This trip must be made at near high tide. We have traveled into the Sanibel Bayou many times and expected this to be similar, but were surprised how different it was. It was lined with mangroves, but they were very short compared to those in Florida. We have noticed that in general the vegetation here is much shorter - it must be the constant trade winds and occasional hurricane that keeps things shorter.

We plan to stay here for Christmas and we are sure it will quite different than any other year. Last year, although we were on the boat, we docked in Everglades City and were at least able to go to a Christmas Eve service. This year we are miles from any civilization, but will still try to maintain as many of our traditions as possible.


Tom
Moored at Shroud Cay
Exumas, Bahamas
Posted by satellite email
Map Cruise 2012-13

Saturday, December 22, 2012

Highbourne Cay

 
December 22, 2012
 
We have spent the last few days at the upscale Highbourne Cay Marina in the Northern Exumas.  If you are a marina guest, you can walk around the island during the day only.  You are restricted to the marina grounds after dark; this is to provide security and privacy for the island residents from the ‘rogue’ sailors.  Highbourne was abandoned until fairly recently when the marina was built and development started throughout the island.  There are a lot of private signs, but the development that we saw was all first class.
 
In the past, we have been a bit disappointed by the beaches in the Bahamas, since their beauty is often spoiled by the trash that is left behind.  Although the water is so clear, showing different colors as it deepens, we often say that we prefer many of the beaches on the West Coast of Florida to the Bahamian beaches.  But, Highbourne Cay has a beautiful beach as shown in the following picture.
 
 
 
 You can tell that you are in an exclusive area, because the beach is raked and then the piles of debris are removed.  You won’t see this in too many places.
 
 
 
Off Highbourne’s east beach, you can find reefs called stromatolites.  Unlike most reefs which are coral, stromatolites have been built up by blue-green microorganisms. Stromatolites are the oldest known macrofossil, dating back 3 billion years , and provide about 80% of the fossil record.  The microorganisms that produced the ancient reefs provided the earth’s oxygen.  Although thought to be extinct, living stromatolites have been recently found in Australia, a few place in South America and the Exumas.  The Exumas is the only location where they grow in open water conditions.  It is fascinating that we can look at these reefs and know that they are living relatives of reefs that existed long before man or any animals roamed the Earth.  In the following picture, the stromatolites are in the foreground, the green being the oxygen-producing algae.  Also, note the changing colors of the water, showing the difference in its depth.
 
 
  
Although Highbourne Cay marina is quite expensive, we were considering it our reward for finishing the 500-mile trip from our dock in Bradenton to the Exumas.  We expected to have a few days of relaxation before we start anchoring and mooring for a few months.  Unfortunately, the first day or two were far from relaxing.  When we hooked up the power cable, the charger didn’t work.  Unfortunately, there was a power outage 10 minutes before we left Bimini, so we weren’t sure whether that had caused a problem with our system, or there was some other issue.  After Tom spent hours testing and trying to find the problem, we think that it was because the voltage was too high for our Magnum charger to accept.  For a few minutes, the voltage declined to a level that the charger would ‘qualify’ it, and we had AC power.  But, that was short-lived.  We are not positive that is the only problem, but we do have a friend with the same charger who had the same problem, and only at the Highbourne Cay Marina.  It will likely be weeks or months before we dock again and know for sure this is the problem, but we won’t worry about it until then.  We will update this entry when we confirm that it was a problem with electrical supply at Highbourne.
 
Tomorrow, we will be headed south to the Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park for a week or ten days.  We are looking forward to exploring this relatively untouched area.
 
Joyce
Docked at Highbourne Cay Marina
Highbourne Cay, Exumas
Map Cruise 2012-13
 
          

Thursday, December 20, 2012

Bimini to Highbourne Cay

December 20, 2012

We had a trip of three long days to go from North Bimini to Highbourne Cay in the Northern Exumas.  The wind was predicted to clock S-W-NE Monday and Tuesday ahead of a weak front scheduled to arrive on Wednesday providing almost perfect winds for a trip SE from Bimini to Highbourne.  The forecast largely held and we had a good trip.

We left Bimini at around 10:00 AM on Monday about an hour before high tide.  There was a significant current still running, but other than a slow exit it was no problem.  We headed north and around North Rock and on to the Bahamas Bank.   The wind was 10-15 knots, and a little east of south providing a good motor sail which turned into a good close reach by afternoon.  We arrived at Mackie Shoal a little before dark and anchored a couple of miles south of the Mackie Shoal light in 12 feet of water.  Anchoring on the bank is weird!  The horizon looks like you are at sea (no land in sight) but you are in 12 feet of water. 

Note to mariners:  The Mackie Shoal marker was there, but unlit as of that night.

We got under way around 2:00 AM on Tuesday morning to allow us to reach the Northwest Channel by first light.  Winds had backed to west of south allowing for another nice motor sail.  We had a very confusing crossing involving two anchored boats and another boat (probably an inter-island freighter).  The light configuration was as confusing as I can remember.  What ended up as two anchor lights looked like a masthead range that is found on larger ships but there were no other obvious navigation lights that would indicate direction The freighter in the background added more ambigous light.  We passed the anchored boats safely as they were getting under way, but a little close for comfort at '0-dark-thirty'.

Our transit through Northwest Channel was uneventful except for the scary remains of the Northwest Channel Light.

Note to mariners:  The Northwest Channel light was destroyed as of this date.  The remains are about 1 1/2' out of the water at low tide (what we saw) but below the water at higher tides per a report from friends.

From the Northwest Chanel we continued SE across the Tongue of the Ocean where you are in sight of land in several directions, but you are in depths up to 7,000 feet.  We anchored Tuesday night in West Bay on the western end of New Providence.  The entrance is a little tricky, but a it is a nice pleasant anchorage that allowed us to bypass busy Nassau harbor.

We left West Bay about 8:30 AM Wednesday (we would leave earlier if we did it again).  Here the forecast did not follow plan.  We expected brisk NE winds, but it was almost dead calm requiring us to motor. We arrived at Highbourne Cay around 4:00PM, fueled the boat, and docked - ending our successful easting.  We are now in the Exumas!

Tom
Docked at Highbourne Cay
Exumas, Bahamas
Map of 2012-13 Cruise






Sunday, December 16, 2012

Around Bimini - Ansil Saunders

December 16, 2012

The last few days in Bimini have been very interesting. 

Yesterday we went to visit Ansil Saunder's boat building shop.  Ansil is a boat builder and bone fishing guide of some renown. 

He builds a beautiful flats fishing boat called the Bimini Bonefisher.  It is hand-built of oak, mahogany, and a very interesting textured local wood called horseflesh. The draft is 6" and it is designed to fish for bonefish on the very shallow banks or flats.

Ansil with a Bimini Bonefisher - note the 'horseflesh' wood on the back of the console


A number of years ago he guided a gentleman that caught the still standing record bonefish.

However, the most remarkable thing about Ansil is his faith and his connection to Martin Luther King Jr.  Dr. King was visiting Bimini and Ansil was asked to take him to a tranquil place where he could think about and draft his upcoming speech in Memphis.  Ansil took him deep into the mangrove creeks.  Dr King was struck by the vibrant life all around and asked Ansil what he said to passengers in his boat that did not believe in a God of creation.  Ansil said he recites a psalm he wrote - the Creation Psalm.  Dr King asked him to recite it and was very inspired by it.  The speech he wrote shortly after that included what he wanted for a eulogy.  King was killed in Memphis three days later after delivering the speech.  Ansil has personal autographs from Correta Scott King and the most recent US ambassador to the Bahamas; both attribute a unique role in the civil rights movement to Ansil. The portion of Ansil's psalm that he recited for us brought tears to our eyes.  May God richly bless you Ansil!

Ansil receiving an award from US Ambassador to the Bahamas


On Sunday we went to Our Lady & St. Stephen Anglican Church.  Ansil and his brother Tommy (who varnishes the boats) were in attendance.   We are not Anglicans and have a little trouble keeping up with the liturgy, but the people were warm and welcoming.  We are also not used to 2 1/2 hour services which are not unusual in Bahamian churches.  At one point in the service they exchange greetings of peace - not an unusual church practice.  But our experience has been that you exchange greetings with a few people around you; not at St Stephens where it seems that everyone exchanges greetings with each and every one present - takes 10 minutes or so.  But we always enjoy visiting churches, it broadens your perspective as to the variety in the Church.

Finally a couple of tips it you ever get to Bimini:
  • Good breakfasts at 'Captain Bobs'
  • Awesome box lunches at the 'The Taste of Heaven' bakery.  $6 at this writing and they have a number of Bahamian entrees that range from chicken to oxtail - I had the curried mutton which was delicous.
  • Visit Ashley Saunders at the Dolphin House
  • Visit Ansil Saunders at his boat building shop.

Tomorrow we are off for 3 long travel days as we travel to Highbourne Cay in the Northern Exumas.

Tom
Docked at Weech's Bimini Dock
North Bimini, Bahamas
2012-13 Cruise


Friday, December 14, 2012

Our Stay in Bimini, Bahamas

December 14, 2012

We have been docked at Weech's Bimini Dock at North Bimini, Bahamas for almost a week, longer than we had planned.  There were some short windows to make some further easting, but we were looking for a little break after making our crossing and chose not to take them.  Now a fairly strong cold front (gale in the Atlantic) has brought stronger winds and seas and we will be here at least until Sunday.

Weech's Bimini Dock has been a comfortable, although not very luxurious, place to stay.  The Weechs were one of the earliest settlers of Bimini.  Hemingway used to dock his boat Pilar at Brown's Marina right down the channel from Weechs and below is a picture of him posing at Weech's with fish he had caught.  Although he apparently only spent a few seasons here, he is quite a local legend.  One story is that he had a standing offer that if anyone beat him in a boxing match, they would win $100 - there were few takers and no winners.  Hemingway at the time was strong, athletic, and an expert boxer.

Hemingway (far left) on Weech's Bimini Dock, July 1936


We have done a lot of walking around Alice Town (the 'marina' district at the south end of the island) and Bailey Town (where many of the residents live).  As with many other 'real' Bahamian towns that we have visited, there is a great deal of poverty here.  The recession of the last few years has not done anything to improve this situation.  Job opportunities outside the tourism industry and public services are scarce. 

At the south end we we visited an old cemetery that included the grave of a member of another old Bimini family - the Saunders.  We liked what was written on his grave stone:

W J Saunders
 
"He fell asleep in Jesus"
Acts 7:59-60
 
Respected by all
 
How I loved him no tongue can tell,
Yes dearly, fondly and well;
Christ loved him too, and thought it best,
To take him home to be at rest.
 
 
 
 
Near the cemetery was the remains of an old cement boat that was wrecked in a hurricane. 
 
What not to do in the Bahamas
 
 
Ironically, we also found a red daymark  lying on the beach, underscoring the oft repeating admonition that aids to navigation in the Bahamas are often unreliable.
 
 
 
 
One day this week we rented a golf cart and toured the island from tip to tip. We went to one of the rental places that had around 15-20 carts in a yard. After discussing rates with 'Trev' the attendant, we agreed to a daily rental. While we filled out some brief paperwork, Trev started to go around the yard trying to find a cart for us - cart after cart failed to start (dead battery). After a while I started to get nervous that this was a bad idea and that we would get stuck somewhere with a cart that would not start. Trev was very nice and apologized for the delay and said that he wanted to get us a 'good one', which we think translates to 'will start'. But he finally found a 'good one' and other than some jerky starts it ran fine. Before taking the cart back the next morning, I returned to the cemetery at the south end of island to take a few more pictures and then refueled the cart before returning it. After walking back to the boat I realized that I no longer had my reading glasses. I have found that glasses on my shirt collar and my camera bag strap are a bad combination, but I still make the mistake. I figured that it would be too difficult to retrace my path and unlikely that I would find them anyway so I gave them up for lost. However, a few minutes later there was a knock on the boat and I looked out to see Trev. He had found my glasses and had walked down to return them. Thank you Trev - you are a gentleman! We typically find the Bahamians to be warm, friendly, and helpful if you treat them with respect.
 
Today we went to the Dolphin House, a museum and rental house built and maintained by Ashley Saunders, a local writer and historian.  He has written a two-volume history of Bimini that we bought and are currently reading.  The house itself is incredible - it is extensively decorated with mosaics created primary with shells, sea glass and other materials with a dolphin and island water theme.  It is definitely worth a visit if you ever get to Bimini. If you Google his name and Bimini you can learn more about this fascinating man.

Bimini Sunrise
 
When we get some favorable weather, we will crossing the Bahama Bank, then on to New Providence via the West Channel, and then to Highbourne Cay in the northern Exumas


Tom
Docked at Weech's Bimini Dock
North Bimini, Bahamas
2012-13 Cruise

Tuesday, December 11, 2012

Crossing to Bimini

December 11, 2012

We are currently docked at Weech's Dock in Bimini, Bahamas after crossing from the US on Sunday 12/9.

Our crossing of the Gulf Stream was OK.  The wind was 8-12 knots from the SSE putting the wind fairly high on the bow requiring us to motorsail.  The waves were 2-3 feet as we left the Biscayne Bay channel but sharp and confused leading to a fairly bumpy ride and a few waves over the side deck.  Fortunately as we left soundings (depth readable by a depth sounder) the waves settled down to a comfortable 2 feet.

As we were close on the wind, we were limited in how far south we could point; that plus dodging a couple of freighters put us about 5 miles north of our desired course about 15 miles from Bimini.  This slowed us down significantly as we then had to motor into the opposing current to make our way back south.  The gulf stream, even at its eastern edge near Bimini, is a formidable force to be reckoned with in a sailboat.

We cleared immigration and customs without any problem although we were only granted a 100 day stay - we had hoped for 180.  This will require us to request an extension as this stay nears its end.  The extensions are typically granted, but it is a nuisance to have to coordinate a visit to immigration within a window of a few days.

Our stay in Bimini has so far been consumed by cleaning the boat and getting a Bahamas (BaTelCo) data phone.  It took us most of the afternoon to get it working, both as a phone and providing connectivity to our computers.  The people at BaTelCo were very nice and special mention goes to the 'computer lady' to whom we were referred by BaTelCo.  She was trying to help us get the SIM card working in an air card which included a 'house call' to our boat.  Final kudos, however, goes to Joyce who got the phone working as a wireless access point - a perfect solution! 

We had originally planned to leave Bimini on Wednesday or Thursday, but with an approaching cold front we may stay until the weekend or early next week - we are not on any schedule at this point.


Tom
Docked at Weech's Dock
North Bimini, Bahamas
2012-13 Cruise

Saturday, December 8, 2012

Coconut Grove and off to the Bahamas

December 8, 2012

We have been moored at Coconut Grove Sailing Club for almost two weeks. We plan to cross the Gulf Stream tomorrow to Bimini in the Bahamas.

Our stay in Miami featured a visit to cousins Corrine and Matt who have remodeled a house in Coconut Grove built in 1938.  They have done a wonderful job and the house looks great.  Matt is continuing to landscape utilizing primarily native plants - definitely a great way to go. 

We also drove back to Bradenton with a rental car to attend dock neighbors Rick and Susan's wedding.  The wedding was at a wonderful bed and breakfast in Palmetto across the Manatee River from Twin Dolphin Marina. It was great to attend the wedding and see many of our friends from the marina.  Best wishes for a blessed marriage Rick and Susan!

We continue to enjoy Coconut Grove and Miami.  We are not city-people, and the first time we came here we thought we would 'endure' our stay. But we have been greatly surprised that we really enjoy Miami.  It is a very Latin city with great food, a vibrant vibe, and lots to do.   Public transportation makes it relatively easy to get around. 

Our current plan is to cross to Bimini in the Bahamas tomorrow.  The weather looks fairly settled with winds from the SSE.  It probably will be a motoring/motor-sailing crossing, but that is difficult to avoid on an eastbound crossing.  One unknown is the length of the cruising permit that we will receive from Bahamian Customs. We would like a 6 month permit, but it up to the discretion of the officer and many people have rather arbitrarily been receiving 60-90 day permits.  They can be renewed, but the process is somewhat of a hassle so we are asking and hoping for longer.

From Bimini we will look for an another window to make further easting across the Bahamas Bank and to the Exuma Islands.  First stop will probably be Highborne Cay.

Tom
Coconut Grove Sailing Club
Miami, FL
Map - Cruise 2012-13